I love this piece about Leonard Cohen (painstakingly slow writer of songs) and Bob Dylan (fast writer).
I’m certainly more a Dylan than a Cohen. If I can’t nail something down quickly, I’m far more likely to drop it than to spend years (or even months) getting it right.
When I started thinking about why I work this way, I recalled that I often say I do my best work when I’m angry.
This is true, but there are variations on the anger that drives me to create things. Often, I’m most motivated by a crushing disappointment that quickly turns into anger over something or another that was done poorly – so I do it better.
But though I often create great work out of anger or frustration, I also create great work out of a kind of hysterical mania. Instead of being driven by an overwhelming negativity, I’ll be driven by an overwhelming need to make something that simply has to exist in the world right this very moment. Though not an angry experience by any stretch, the urgency of it is not unlike the urgency I feel when anger pushes me to lash out.
In any case, I am certainly not a broody creator. I don’t strive for anything I make to be perfect, which is why, I think, I’m far more inclined toward quick-and-dirty. If I overthink anything at all, it’s extremely likely it’ll end up terrible.
I’d never thought about the relationship between my speed of work and the emotions that drive me to make it. I’m glad I came across this piece that led me to the connection.
So, what about you? Are you more a Cohen or a Dylan?
This is the 7th post in a 7 part series on how to write an outstanding crochet pattern. The rest of the series can be found here: part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, part 5, part 6, part 7. There are five posts from me, and two fabulous guest posts from Kate Atherly.
So here we are. Time to wrap this series up!
We’ve covered why the information presented in the front matter of a pattern is so valuable; how and why it’s important to treat numbers and measurements accurately; how technical writing is different from other kinds of writing and why it’s important to focus on the clarity, brevity and accuracy of your pattern; and how images – photos, schematics and charts/diagrams – play an essential role, too. Kate Atherley expanded on the assumptions you make about your reader when you write a pattern, and on the importance of having your pattern professionally edited.
What Your Pattern Must Include
The front matter:
Title and your name
Finished size (including metric and Imperial units of measurement)
Stitch definitions (optional)
It is clear, concise and consistent.
The finishing instructions provide all the information your intended crocheter needs.
It has been tech edited.
Clear photos showing all technically relevant details
Stitch diagram (optional)
Here’s my general workflow when I prepare a crochet pattern.
Fiddle with yarn and hook. Take lots of notes.
Settle on a pattern. Write it down as I go.
Transfer pattern notes into instruction format, checking against what I’ve crocheted.
Finish writing instructions.
Add in all the front matter information, with the blocked gauge added last since I usually have the project soaking as I write this section out.
Send the full pattern to the tech editor, and request a stitch diagram if needed.
Photograph finished project.
Receive pattern and stitch diagrams back from tech editor.
Lay out pattern with images.
Put pattern up for sale.
That’s a lot of steps. Even if you do them in a different order, you can’t really skip any of them.
For the Resa Shawlette, which I began crocheting in early November, the whole process took about six weeks. The actual crocheting took less than one week of that time.
And here she is, out in the world, ready for crocheters everywhere. You can purchase the pattern – which I designed to bring out the best in a high-contast variegated yarn, specifically for first-time shawl crocheters and for people who love a chill, relaxing project – on Ravelry or Craftsy*.
I’ll finish up with three things you should do to ensure you write an outstanding crochet pattern (or, really, any craft pattern at all):
Keep your intended audience in mind. If you’re designing for beginners, make it something beginners can make. If you’re designing for people who love bold colour, use bold colour.
Remember that while you know who your intended audience is, they do not know what you know. Be explicit when you write up your pattern. Be concise, consistent, and explicit.
Pay a technical editor.
This has been the 7th (and final) post in a multi-part series on how to write a top-notch crochet pattern. The previous post was a second guest post from Kate Atherley, where she makes an excellent case for hiring a professional editor.
Thank you for sticking around for this whole series! I know I only covered things at a high level; if you have questions about anything at all, don’t hesitate to ask!
* The prices are listed in different currencies on Ravelry (which allows me to use my home currency) and Craftsy (which only lists prices in U.S. dollars). Due to currency fluctuations, I estimated on the USD price in the Craftsy listing.
This is the 1st post in a 7 part series on how to write an outstanding crochet pattern. The rest of the series can be found here: part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, part 5, part 6, part 7. There are five posts from me, and two fabulous guest posts from Kate Atherly.
Two unexpected and delightful things happened recently, and they’ve combined to finally get me to write up a series of posts I’ve been meaning to write for years. I mean years.
The first thing was that a student in my Next Steps in Crochet class asked me if I had a good resource she could use to learn how to write up an original crochet pattern. And the second is that I wound up a skein of yarn and it shouted in my face that it needed to become a certain kind of shawl, and I’ve been meeting its demands. Which means that just as I’ve had a request for a resource on how to write a crochet pattern, I’ve come up with a pattern to write up. Score.
So here’s the first post of a five-post series outlining, in broad strokes, how to write a solid, accurate crochet pattern that crocheters will enjoy following.
I will be blunt and uncompromising about this. If I say that a certain piece of information is necessary to include, I don’t mean sometimes, I mean every time, no exceptions. Writing a clear, easy-to-follow crochet pattern – even for a complex, complicated project – relies on a set of skills that’s wholly different from the skills required to design a crocheted piece. We’re talking technical writing, here. So if you’ve got the design part nailed but need a hand conveying clear instructions to others, this series is a great place to start.
I’m going to break up the sections and aspects of a pattern and cover them one by one, because each is very important and deserves its due.
Note: I’m writing this series with beginner designers in mind, but this information is as applicable to a seasoned designer’s patterns. I’m focusing on technical information rather than on style or graphic design, because it’s the technical information that’s harder to come by, and unlike with style and design, there’s actually very little wiggle room when it comes to covering the technical stuff.
One more note: I’m writing this with self-publishers in mind, but publications require the same kind of information in their patterns. If you’re going to self-publish your pattern, please have it tech edited after you write it (if you’re writing for a publication, your editor will have the pattern tech edited for you). This is a required step to ensure that your pattern is as clear and accurate as possible. Even the simplest patterns should be tech edited. Before I release the very simple shawl pattern I’ll be using as an example throughout this series, I’ll have it tech edited.
The Elements to Include at the Beginning of Your Patterns
I’m not sure if anyone else calls the beginning bits of a pattern the front matter, but that’s what I call it, probably because that’s what publishing people call the first few pages of a book – the ones containing copyright information, publisher info, title page, table of contents, etc. But unlike the copyright page of a book, which you can totally skip without it affecting your experience of the book in any way, the front matter of a crochet pattern includes information that’s very, very important.
The first text you see when you open up a crochet pattern is the description of the project (this is often what designers copy and paste onto sales pages, too). This might seem like inconsequential filler text, but it’s not. The pattern intro is the second place crocheters go for information that will help them decide whether they want to make the pattern or not (the first place, obviously, is the gorgeous photo you’ve taken). So the intro is very, very important.
Write a short paragraph – two to four sentences should do it – about the project. Describe your inspiration or motivation briefly, and be sure to include some information on how it’s constructed.
Go ahead and include flowery (for the love of puppies, not too flowery) marketing copy here, but also include enough plain-language technical information that crocheters can determine if they have the skills and/or curiosity to commit to making it.
Here’s an example:
Named after my paternal grandmother who was, by all accounts, both stylish and of colourful personality, Risa is a triangular shawl designed to showcase high-contrast variegated yarns. The pattern’s two-row repeat makes it very easy to memorize, and the simple stitching is appropriate for beginners ready to experience the wonder of crocheting shawls, and for more experienced crocheters who enjoy a relaxing, rhythmic project.
See what I did there? Not only did I explain why the shawl is named Risa, I also included enough about how the project is made that beginners know they can totally tackle it, and advanced crocheters know there’s something in it for them, too. I also specifically mention that the design is lovely when made in high-contrast variegated yarn, because this kind of yarn can be hard to pair with a great design, since the bold colour changes can drown out details like lace or cables, and colour-pooling drives some crafters nuts. Based on the two sentences of the introduction, crocheters know the shawl is shaped like a triangle, that the pattern is a two-row repeat, and that it’s simple enough for beginners to make. They also know that my grandmother was a character, which isn’t important to the writing of the pattern, but it’s important because it allows crocheters to feel a personal connection with the design.
List all the tools and materials the crocheter will need to complete the project. This section is extremely important, because crocheters must make decisions about the materials they’ll use, and those decisions will directly affect their happiness with their finished item. (We all want our pattern followers to be happy with what they make from our patterns, in case that needs to be said!)
Specify the exact type of yarn – its weight, fiber composition, and quantity – you used to make the sample(s) shown in the photos. You may want to acknowledge that crocheters can easily substitute a different yarn for the one you used. Here are two options for how to list the yarn requirements for the project. Either is good, just choose the one you prefer.
Yarn: SweetGeorgia Yarns Silk Crush (fingering weight; 50% superwash merino, 50% silk; 375 yds per 115 g), 1 skein in Starfish custom colourway. (This colour is not readily available, but any boldly contrasting colourway will look great in this design, and solid colours or low-contrast variegated yarns will look great, too.)
Yarn: 375 yds fingering weight. Shown here in SweetGeorgia Yarns Silk Crush (50% superwash merino, 50% silk; 375 yds per 115 g), in custom colourway Starfish.
Both options tell the crocheter the weight of the yarn required, and how much of it they need.
You must include all of this information: the yarn weight, what the yarn is made of (the composition of the yarn is very important to the overall look, feel and behaviour of the project), and how much the crocheter needs to buy. Unless you have no way of knowing exactly what name the manufacturer calls the colour(s) you used, also be sure to include the colour information so crocheters can buy that exact colour if they want to replicate the design exactly. (In this example, the colour I used for the shawl is not readily available because it was an errant skein the manufacturer had leftover from a colourway she designed for a specific client. That’s not ideal, because crocheters won’t be able to exactly replicate this shawl, but I’m going with it because I want to, so I’m also including information about other colourways people can use.)
Tell the crocheter what size hook they should use. Note that this is always a recommendation, not law, because as we all know there’s quite a lot of variety in people’s tension, so crocheters should also be told to adjust their hook size if needed to obtain the required gauge.
Important note: No matter where you live or how you think of hook sizes in your mind, you must, without exception, include the metric size of listed hook(s). Alphabetic and non-metric number sizes used in the U.S. and elsewhere are not standard from manufacturer to manufacturer or region to region, which means that there can be variation between the actual sizes of hooks bearing the same designation. The metric size of a hook, given in millimetres, is not variable. Ever. So even if you decide to include letter or non-metric number size labels, you must also include the metric size. Otherwise you leave your crocheter to guess. And good instructions never rely on the follower’s guesswork.
List any items the crocheter will need to finish the project, in addition to yarn and hook. If buttons are needed, indicate how many and what size. Same with beads, zippers, etc. If you use stitch markers in the pattern, specify how many. You don’t need to list obvious things like a yarn needle for weaving in ends, or scissors.
List all relevant dimensions of the finished project, as measured after blocking. If the design is flat, as in a scarf, blanket or shawl, list its finished length and width (or wingspan and depth, if you prefer those designations for a shaped shawl). If the design is made in the round, as in a hat or mittens, include the circumference at the most important place, like the brim of a hat or the palm of a mitten. If the design is a garment of any sort, include, at a minimum, the finished bust or chest circumference and the intended ease. (Ease describes the difference between the garment’s finished chest/bust measurement and the wearer’s actual measurement. Ease can be negative for a snug fit, zero for a flush fit, or positive for a loose/relaxed fit.)
If your design is for anything beyond a simple hat, scarf or blanket, consider including a schematic drawing of the finished shape so that you can include as many important measurements as possible. For example, the schematic for a sweater design should indicate not only the chest/bust measurement, but also the length of the sleeves and their circumference, the width of the neck opening, the length from armpit to hem, and, possibly, quite a bit more.
You do not need to create a schematic on your computer if you don’t know how to do that. You can use graph paper and draw it out – just make sure it’s neat, accurate, and very clearly legible.
If your design is written for different sizes, include the finished measurements for every size. For example, if I’m including instructions for a small and large version of the shawl:
Length: 60 (72)” from point to point; depth: 24 (29)”.
Gauge information is crucial to include. Crucial. Even if you don’t think the exact finished size of your design is important, you must include information about gauge.
Determine the project’s gauge by measuring the number of stitches and rows in a 4″ (10 cm) square. For example:
12 stitches and 8 rows = 4″ (10 cm) in dc.
If your design is primarily composed of a stitch pattern, list the gauge in that pattern. Like:
8 v-sts and 7 rows = 4″ (10 cm).
3 shell-st pattern reps and 5 rows = 4″ (10 cm).
Do not list the gauge in a smaller range than 4″ (10 cm) square – it leaves open too much room for variability, and therefore inaccuracy.
Be specific to the half-stitch – if there are actually 12.5 double crochets in 4″, that half a stitch makes a difference, so don’t round.
Gauge is usually measured on blocked fabric. If, however, there’s a good reason to measure the gauge before blocking, specify that the crocheter must measure gauge before blocking, and put in a note about why.
(And yes, as a crocheter, the way to ensure that your project is the same size as the designer’s is to make a gauge swatch before you start, and block it before measuring.)
If your pattern involves a stitch pattern, define that pattern here. Likewise, if you’re using any uncommon abbreviations, like stitch combinations that go beyond the basic stitches, define those abbreviations here.
V-st (v-stitch): (Dc, ch 1, dc) in same stitch or space.
Inc-w (increase): (Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in same stitch or space. (Note: I made up this abbreviation because I think it’s the most direct way of easily indicating exactly what I want the crocheter to do. You can totally make things up – but only make them up if you’re solving a problem that hasn’t already been solved in a widely known manner, and only if you very clearly define what your made-up instruction means.)
This final section of the front matter is where you can tell the crocheter important things she needs to know before starting to crochet. Tell her about the way the project is constructed – if, say, the hat is worked from the top-down or the bottom-up – and if there are any potentially unexpected quirks she should know about ahead of time. If there’s lace in the project that needs to be blocked severely in order to look best, say that here.
It’s been a while since I lost my shit about something to do with being a book writer. Leave it to the Authors Guild to get me back to it.
Google has been doing a thing for over a decade now, and that thing is benign at worst and amazeballs at best: they’ve been scanning millions of print books and making them searchable online. You may have heard of this. It’s named in that descriptive way Google names their things. It’s called Google Books.
When you search Google Books, it returns snippets from its scanned books that are relevant to your search. It does not return the entire text of books. It does not return even a huge portion of a book. It returns a snippet. You may be familiar with snippets, because those are what Google returns when you search the web, too.
Google Books will also display quite a sizeable excerpt of a book on the book’s page, along with a link to purchase a digital copy of the book. For example, you can read the introduction and quite a lot of the first part of my most recent book right here. Do I feel threatened that you can read a fair chunk of my book online for free? No, I am not at all threatened. That’s because I think having a chance to read some of my book allows prospective buyers to decide if it’s right for them. If they know it’s right for them, they’ll be far more likely to buy it, and enjoy it. If it’s not right for them, well, then they’ll know that too. That’s not threatening to me. That’s a damned valuable service. I want as many people to read my book as possible, and to enjoy it. So I want people to get to know the book before they buy it, so that if they buy it, they’ll be quite likely to enjoy it. This is a valuable service, you see. A valuable service.
Well, the Authors Guild, grand protectors as they are of rights that are not actually under threat, has been suing Google Books for ages and ages. They assert that Google is infringing on authors’ copyright. Google asserts that their transforming of books into digital snippets is covered under fair use.
The courts have been, thankfully, siding with Google.
When I read this summary of the recent court ruling against the Authors Guild, I did what I usually do when the Authors Guild does dumb things: I took to Twitter. But Twitter isn’t what it used to be when it comes to immediate conversation, and I impressed myself with the soundness of my rant, so I want to put it all here on the blog so you can read it in its entirety and maybe respond as you see fit:
Here’s how the Author’s Guild works AGAINST the interest of authors:
And there you have it. I don’t know why some authors think they need to fight their readers to make a living. I sure prefer celebrating my readers and using every tool available to me to try to grow their ranks.
PS If you’ve read any of my books, thank you. I love you. Please tell your friends and your library and your local book store, and leave a rating on your favourite bookish site so more people can find out about them.
It took a few months for me to get my work life in order earlier this year so I could do as little work as possible on the road. As it turned out, that ended up meaning a bunch of stuff I did before May came out while we were away. In case I did a sub-par job of letting you know about it when I was relying mostly on my phone – with terrible cell service and nearly nonexistent wifi – here’s what came out while I was otherwise cavorting through the desert with my family:
Next Steps in Crochet (that’s a half-price link right there), my new Craftsy class. It’s an advanced-beginner class, designed to be, um, a great next step for people who are comfortable with basic crochet stitches and techniques and are ready to up their game. If this is you, I hope to see you in there! Here’s way more about the class. (And if you don’t know how to crochet yet, my beginner class will get you going. I promise. [That’s also a half-price link.])
I did a long and meaty interview with Dave Conrey on the Fresh Rag podcast, in which I talk about a bunch of things I rarely address explicitly (like how my religious non-belief relates to my creative life and my identity as a person and my own internal consistency across my personal, work and creative lives, and more). I finally had a chance to listen to the interview, and I’m proud of it. I agree with everything I say – which doesn’t always happen, because it can be hard to say a complex or sensitive thing well when you’re doing it off the cuff and it’s being recorded – even when I was ready to cringe because I was sure I was going to say something not quite right or downright dumb. Also, there are shout-outs to Wil Wheaton, JK Rowling, Oliver Burkeman, and my drinking buddies from college. If you have a little over an hour, I hope you’ll give it a listen and let me know if it brings anything up for you.
I finished up a huge editing project before the trip, which means I have some time available now, if you have a project you’d like to work on together. I have time enough to take on a larger project like a book/ebook, or a bunch of smaller project, like craft patterns/tutorials, essays, etc. (If you’re new to the editing game, I’ll walk you through what I can do for you. Just ask!)
To celebrate being home, here’s a coupon for 15% off orders over $5 in my shop (or on Etsy); use code YAYHOME15.