I filmed this tutorial well over a year ago but forgot to put it here on my site! 🙄
Beginning a crochet project in the round with an adjustable ring means there won't be a hole in the very centre of your project. (Sometimes you want that hole, but sometimes you really don't.)
It's a very useful technique to master, and it's super simple. If you crochet amigurumi or other kinds of toys in the round, if you make non-lacy hats, or anything else where you want to eliminate the hole in the centre, the adjustable ring will be your best friend.
If stripes are the simplest way to play with colour in a crochet project, then creating a striped project in the round that begins with a nifty spiral is the best next step.
It might be a little mind-bendy to think about it, but once you make your first spiral, it'll make perfect sense and become something you'll hopefully do again and again to spruce up any simple project in the round.
Here's what you need:
2 colours of yarn in the same weight; consider one colour A and the other B (shown here is Cascade 220; blue is A and green is B)
Insert your hook into the ring and pull up a loop, chain 1.
If you're working in single crochet: Make 6 sc into the ring.
If you're working in a taller stitch, start with single crochet and gradually increase in height as follows:
For half double crochet: Make 3 sc, 3 hdc into the ring.
For double crochet (shown in example here): Make 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc into ring.
For all stitches: Finally, remove your hook and pull up your working loop to prevent unraveling (see photo above).
Step 3: Round 1, Second Half
Join yarn B as follows: Leaving a 6″ (15 cm) tail, insert your hook into the centre of the ring and pull up a loop of B, chain 1.
If you're working in single crochet: Make 6 sc into the ring.
For half double crochet (shown in example here): Make 3 sc, 3 hdc into the ring.
For double crochet: Make 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc into ring.
For all stitches: Finally, place marker in last stitch made to indicate the end of the round; remove your hook and pull up the working loop to prevent unraveling (see photo above).
This completes the first round. Next, you'll tighten up the ring, then move on to establish the striping pattern.
Step 4: Tighten the Adjustable Ring
As shown in the video above, firmly pull or tug on the tail of the ring to close it up entirely. There should be no visible hole in the centre, as in the photo above.
Now we're ready for Round 2.
Step 5: Round 2 and Establishing the Striping Pattern
Just as in any project in the round, we begin increasing here. Because we began with a total of 12 stitches in Round 1, we'll be adding 12 stitches in total to each subsequent round – we'll increase by 6 stitches in each colour.
Insert your hook back into the last stitch of Round 1 (this is in colour B).
In this example, B is to be worked in half double crochet (hdc). If you're working in a different stitch, just substitute that one.
Continuing with B, [2 hdc in next stitch] 6 times, remove hook and pull the working loop long so it doesn't unravel.
In this example, A is to be worked in double crochet (dc). If you're using a different stitch, just substitute that one.
Reinsert your hook in the working loop of A. With A, [2 dc in next stitch] 6 times.
You now have a total of 24 stitches at the end of the round – 12 in B and 12 in A (see photo, above.
The striping pattern has been set up: You will always work B into A, and A into B.
Step 6: Continue in Pattern as Established
There are two patterns you've established, of course: the increasing pattern (adding 12 stitches to each round; 6 in each colour), and the striping pattern (always working B into A and A into B).
As you continue, you'll keep at both patterns until, if you're making a hat or a bowl or something else that's 3-D, you stop increasing so that your circle will begin to cup into the proper shape. When it's time for that, simply maintain the striping pattern without increasing anymore.
Here's what Round 3 will look like: Continuing with A, [dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch] 3 times; remove hook and reinsert in loop of B; with B, [hdc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch] 3 times — 36 stitches total.
And there you have it! A two-colour crocheted spiral.
Spirals! Spirals appear throughout the universe in spectacular displays of mathematics and science. Also, they're really cool-looking. And spirals are very nifty to crochet in multiple colours (here's a tutorial).
This hat starts with a two-colour spiral at the top, and I designed it in part to showcase this neat technique. I also designed it in the wake of the incredibly powerful visual impact Pussyhats made at the Women's Marches in January. The Hat for Science is a simple craftivist project just in time for the worldwide Marches for Science on April 22, 2017.
A chilling report that major U.S. news shows spent a combined total of less than an hour reporting on issues related to climate change in all of 2016 means we need to get seriously loud about the importance of scientific enquiry and fact-based decision-making. Those words may not sound sexy, but ignoring our dire need to address the impending devastation of life on earth isn't sexy either. So.
Grab your hook and make a statement! Phone and write to your elected representatives (no matter where you live – this is not only an American issue!) and tell them you expect them to support funding for scientific research and to consider solid, peer-reviewed scientific findings when making decisions that affect our environment, education, food safety, medicine and more.
Find the free Hat for Science pattern below, or download it as a print-friendly PDF:
Hat for Science
To fit a medium/large adult head.
Finished brim circumference: 22″ (56 cm).
To make the hat smaller or larger, work fewer or more increase rounds before working even (and adjust the number of work-even rounds). If you want to learn more about sizing hats of all sorts, you’ll enjoy my class, Crochet in the Round: Basics & Beyond!
Yarn: Worsted weight, about 75 yards colour A and 85 yards colour B. Shown here in: Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 m] per 3.5 oz.) [100 g], 9452 Summer Sky Heather (blue; A) and 2429 Irelands (green; B).
Hook: 5.5mm (US I/9).
Notions: Removable stitch marker.
14 sts and 9 rows = 4” (10 cm) in alternating rounds of dc and hdc.
American terms are used.
A = colour A (shown here in blue) B = colour B (shown here in green) ch = chain dc = double crochet hdc = half double crochet rep = repeat sc = single crochet sl st = slip stitch tch = turning chain
Hat is designed to have each colour worked in a different stitch (A in dc, B in hdc), so that one colour is slightly more dominant than the other. Choose whether you’re, say, more inclined to advocate for land-related science (green) versus water-related science (blue), and make that colour your dominant colour A. The other will be colour B. (Obviously, you can make this hat in any colours you want, not only in blue and green!)
You will not join each round at the end, but rather work in a continuing spiral.
Use a removable stitch marker to indicate the final stitch of the round; move the marker up as you go.
Round 1: Insert hook in ring and pull up a loop, ch 1, work (2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc) in centre of ring, remove hook from A (pull the loop long to prevent unraveling); leaving a 6” tail, join colour B by pulling up a loop, ch 1, work (3 sc, 3 hdc) in centre of ring, place marker in stitch just made (this is the last stitch of the round) — 12 stitches total.
Round 2: Continuing with B, [2 hdc in next stitch] 6 times, remove hook and reinsert in loop of A; with A, [2 dc in next stitch] 6 times — 24 stitches. (Note that a pattern has been set up: You will always work B into A, and A into B.)
Round 3: Continuing with A, [dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch] 6 times; remove hook and reinsert in loop of B; with B, [hdc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch] 6 times — 36 stitches.
Round 4: Continuing with B, [hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] 6 times; with A, [dc in next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch] 6 times — 48 stitches.
Round 5: Continuing with A, [dc in next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch] 6 times; with B, [hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] 6 times — 60 stitches.
Round 6: Continuing with B, [hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] 6 times; with A, [dc in next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch] 6 times — 72 stitches.
Continue in colour pattern as established, without increasing, as follows:
Round 7: Continuing with A, dc in next 36 stitches; with B, hdc in next 36 stitches. (Bold indicates corrections to mistakes in the original pattern.It's all good now!)
Rounds 8-16: Continue to work even without increasing, working A stitches into colour B and B stitches into colour A.
Now smooth out the jagged end-of-rounds and begin the brim, as follows:
Round 17(ish): (This is really a half round, for reasons that will become clear.) Continuing with A, dc in next 27 stitches, hdc in next 3 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, sl st in next 3 stitches, fasten off A, move marker to final sl st (this will be the new “end” of the round).
Rounds 18-20: Continuing with B, sc all the way around (do not join your rounds); at the end of Round 20, sl st in the next 2 stitches, fasten off.
Weave in loose ends.
When you share your finished hat, make sure to tag me (@kpwerker) and #hat4science!
Hi! I'm a writer and editor, and also like a camp counselor for grownups. I help people have way more fun making stuff. Learn more about how right here.